Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla marks 40 years with their first-ever jewellery collection

What happens when four decades of couture craftsmanship move from fabric to fine jewellery? Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla answer with “Iconic Jewels”, their first jewellery collection. It is exactly what you will expect from masters of maximalism, launched as the duo celebrated 40 years in fashion.

The duo carries their creative ideas into a new medium: intricate Indian craft, dramatic forms, rich colour and elaborate detailing, now expressed through gold, diamonds, pearls and gemstones.

Dimple Kapadia, associated with the designers since their early years, returns as the face of the jewelry campaign.

Here's a closer look at the ranges, the gemstones behind them, and where to see the collection in Mumbai.

Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla's Journey From Couture to Jewellery.

Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla started their journey in 1986, and September 2026 brought the launch of Iconic Jewels, a line that took four decades to arrive. The collection sits inside The Vault, a dedicated jewellery space at Mubarak Baug, their new flagship in South Mumbai. It includes ranges named Abad, Roshnai, Talismati and Junoon.

Abu and Sandeep commented: “Like couture, jewellery is all about expressing who you are. Your taste indicates the way you see the world and it’s the most beautiful way of finding your people. For Iconic Jewels, we have poured years of vision into creating something that is forever.”

There is also a personal dimension to the debut. Abu Jani has long embraced jewellery through statement brooches and ornate accessories, making the move feel like a natural extension of the designers’ visual world. Their maximal sensibility carries into the collection through colour, scale, intricate craftsmanship and symbolism.

Dimple Kapadia Returns as Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla's Muse

Dimple Kapadia's bond with the designers goes back to the very start. She was among the first clients of Mata Hari, the Mumbai boutique where Abu and Sandeep began their fashion journey, and in the 1990s she modelled their first Chikankari collection.

Years later, she fronts their jewellery campaign, the designers say, "We couldn't have asked for a better muse than Dimple. After all, she is the pinnacle of eternal beauty." Dimple, a collector herself, calls Iconic Jewels "an absolute feast" and says the workmanship matches the uncompromising quality of their couture.

She adds that the three have grown together "as humans, as friends," and that Abu and Sandeep always know how to make a woman feel her absolute best, in clothes or in jewellery.

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Iconic Jewels is split into four ranges: Abad, Roshnai, Talismati, and Junoon, crafted in 18‑karat gold with diamonds, pearls, and colored gemstones, including Zambian emeralds, Mozambique rubies, and multicolored sapphires.

Abad

Inspired by Patola embroidery, the Abad collection translates the designers’ signature textile motif language into high jewellery, using 18‑karat gold set with Zambian emeralds, Mozambique rubies and multicoloured sapphires.

Roshnai

Roshnai is inspired by chikankari craftsmanship and features diamonds and pearls arranged in Mughal-inspired motifs. It follows the same lines with white-on-white embroidery and courtly aesthetics.

Talismati

The Talismati range incorporates protective symbols and cultural motifs, using diamonds, rubies and gold to evoke talismanic and devotional imagery rooted in Indian tradition.

Junoon

Junoon is defined by dragon-inspired forms that symbolise strength and determination, realised in designs that combine emeralds and rubies within the

Where to See Iconic Jewels in Mumbai

One can see the collection at Mubarak Baug, the designers' new 20,000-square-foot flagship inside the heritage Framjee Cawasjee Institute, opposite Metro Cinema in South Mumbai. The jewellery sits in The Vault, a geometric, diamond-shaped structure that echoes the art of gem cutting, with lotus motifs woven into its architecture.

The idea comes from gem cutting, where every facet is planned to catch the light, and the room's architecture follows that same discipline. There's also symbolism in it, since precious pieces kept inside a diamond feel protected and prized. The setting is meant to let the clarity and shine of each stone take centre stage, so the space matches the brilliance of what it holds.

Ultimately, the collection brings Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla’s four-decade design legacy into the world of fine jewellery, and the gemstones are what make it convincing. Zambian emeralds and Mozambique rubies bring vivid colour, multicoloured sapphires add range, and diamonds and pearls keep the Chikankari-inspired pieces soft and luminous. Iconic Jewels feels like the label's embroidery archive rebuilt in stone. It is a confident first collection, and the stones do a lot of the talking. If you're in Mumbai, see it at The Vault in Mubarak Baug and judge the colour in person.

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